Open cup bra guide, support, sizing and what to wear it with

Few pieces surprise people as much as an open cup bra. Many expect a novelty, then discover that a well made one lifts, shapes and feels more like a structured bra than a strip of elastic. The trick is understanding what the frame does and choosing the right amount of opening for you.

Three kinds of open cup bra

The phrase covers several cuts, and each gives a different picture.

• The quarter cup. A low cup that supports the underside of the breast and leaves the top open. It looks like a very low balconette and is the gentlest introduction. The Cachette Quarter Cup Bra ($72) is lace on a firm frame, in Noir and Bordeaux.
• The cupless bra or shelf bra. No cup at all, just a frame of band and straps that circles and lifts. Bold and graphic. The Nue Cupless Bra ($58) is made of strappy elastic.
• The open cup longline. The band extends down the ribs toward the waist, which spreads the support and creates a corset like line. The Fente Open Cup Longline ($92) is lace and comes in plus cuts.

All three are collected on our open cup bras page, and complete looks with a matching bottom are under open cup lingerie.

Does an open cup bra give real support?

It does, though the support comes from a different place. In an ordinary bra the cup carries much of the weight. In an open cup bra the band does nearly all the work, helped by the underwire or the shaped frame beneath the bust. That is why the band size matters so much.

A band that fits snugly lifts the bust and keeps the frame in place when you move. A loose band rides up at the back, the frame drops and the effect is lost. If you have a fuller bust, a longline or a quarter cup with an underwire gives the most lift. A cupless strappy bra is about framing more than lifting, and it suits smaller busts or anyone who wants the most graphic look.

Is it something to wear under a shirt to the office? Not really. It is made for the bedroom, a boudoir session or an evening at home, where the point is what it reveals. For those hours, a well fitted one is perfectly comfortable.

How to find your size

Our bras are sized in letters, with a bra size reference for each letter in the size guide. Two measurements decide it.

1. Underbust. Measure snugly around the ribcage, directly under the bust, keeping the tape level. This is your band measurement and the most important one.
2. Bust. Measure loosely around the fullest part. The difference between bust and underbust tells you the cup.

As a guide, an underbust of 30 to 31 inches with a bust of 35 to 36 inches points to a Medium (roughly 34C, 34D or 36B). An underbust of 36 to 37 inches with a bust of 43 to 45 inches points to a 1X (roughly 40C, 40D or 42C). If your band and bust point to two different letters, follow the band, because the band is what holds an open cup bra up.

For a longline, also check your waist measurement against the chart. The lower edge sits on the ribs, and if your waist is at the top of a size, the next size up will breathe better.

What to wear with an open cup bra

An open cup bra almost always looks best as part of a set. Some pairings that work:

Mood	Pair it with	Why it works
Fully bare	Crotchless panties in the same lace	Two openings, one consistent look
Teasing	A high waist brief and stockings	The top reveals, the bottom covers
Soft night	A sheer robe, worn open	The robe frames rather than hides
Bound	A body harness over the bra	Straps echo the frame and add structure

If you would rather not match pieces yourself, the Soupir Open Cup Set ($119) pairs a lace open cup bra with a matching bottom, in Noir, Bordeaux and Rouge, and it is made in plus cuts. You will find more combinations among our lingerie sets.

Open cup bras for a boudoir session

Boudoir photographers love open cup bras because they keep a strong line across the ribs while showing the shape of the bust. A few habits make the pictures better. Put the bra on at least half an hour before the first frame, so any marks from your everyday bra have time to fade. Choose a quarter cup or a longline rather than a strappy cupless bra if you want a softer, more classic image, and the cupless style if you want something graphic. Lace in Noir or Bordeaux reads beautifully in low light, while lighter colors suit a bright room with large windows. Finally, adjust the straps so they sit firmly on the shoulders, because a slipping strap pulls the frame down and changes the lift. A small adjustment between shots keeps everything where it should be.

The same advice works for a private evening. Give yourself a few minutes in the bra before anyone sees it, so you feel at ease in it rather than conscious of it. Confidence shows more than any cut.

Adding pasties, or not

Some people love the idea of an open cup bra but want a little more coverage at first. A pair of pasties under the frame is the answer. They keep the shape of the look while covering the nipple, and they can come off later in the evening. Our pasties start at $18.

Care and storage

Hand wash in cool water, fasten the hooks first so they do not catch on the lace, and dry flat. Never put an underwired bra in a dryer, the heat can bend the wire. Store it with the band flat and the frame unfolded, not folded in half, so the shape of the frame stays true.

Bras are not worn against the most intimate skin, so an unworn bra with its tags still on can be exchanged once for another size within 30 days of delivery. That gives you room to get the band right, which is the single most important thing about an open cup bra.

Questions

What is an open cup bra?

A bra that keeps the band, straps and often an underwire, but leaves part or all of the cup open. It lifts and frames the bust instead of covering it.

Is an open cup bra supportive?

Yes, if the band fits snugly. The band and the frame under the bust carry the weight. Longline and quarter cup styles with an underwire give the most lift.

How do I choose my open cup bra size?

Measure your underbust and bust and use our size chart. If the two numbers point to different sizes, follow the underbust, because the band holds the bra up.

Can I exchange an open cup bra if it does not fit?

Yes. An unworn bra with its tags on can be exchanged once for another size within 30 days of delivery. Write to us with your order number.

What do you wear with an open cup bra?

Matching crotchless panties for a fully bare look, a high waist brief and stockings to tease, or a sheer robe worn open.